Are you also interested in experimenting with various DIY projects as the conventional methods can lead you to laugh all the way to the bank?
Septic tanks play a vital role in eliminating wastewater and debris. A septic tank is a concrete, Fiberglas, or plastic underground chamber through which household drains flow for basic cleaning.
Sewage treatment plants are underground treatment plants frequently used in rural areas where there are no centralized sewage systems.
They treat domestic wastewater from bathrooms, kitchen drains, and laundry rooms using a combination of nature and proven technology.
You can hire an expert to mount the septic system, but that would not be a good option if you are running out of budget. All you need to know now is a method that would be easy on your budget.
The significant factors to consider while mounting is site inspection and the size of the tank; without these factors, no one can install the system.
Today, this guide will help you know how to build a 2-barrel septic system without errors and possible risks.
How to build a 2-barrel septic system: Step Wise Explanation
The storage and fermentation tanks and the spreading field are the two main components of most private sewage treatment plants.
The system shown here is a small system designed for two people without laundry and a small caravan. The concept differs from that of a more extensive procedure.
The tank is significantly smaller than required, and the construction lacks a few critical components such as interior bulkheads and a skilled site assessment.
Property owners considering a similar system should be aware that it would be rejected by any public health agency in the United States.
The owner could face significant fines if the system is discovered to be in use. In contrast to the 1000-to-2000-gallon tanks used in a standard home declaration system, this system uses two 55-gallon barrels.
The method we’re building here also has a scattering field the size of a third of a large house. The factors that count as the most important ones are defined below.
The place of installation
Keep in mind that you must decide where to locate the septic tank and drainage field: sometimes, soil surveys are required to determine the soil’s drainage capacity and the seasonal groundwater table of the property.
The land for the treatment plant must be examined and approved by the health and planning authorities.
The depth of the field drains, and the health and planning authorities also determine the septic tank. Determine the size of your homemade septic tank that will be required as well. Consider 55-gallon barrels per person per day.
Check with your local health department and county government before constructing a sewage treatment plant to see if the location of your home is suitable for creating a sewage treatment plant.
When the go-ahead is given, make a list of all the requirements and purchase permits that grant you the right to build.
If the septic system requirements are not met, you can rebuild it at the end if you read, understand, and follow them before starting the construction process.
Now let’s step ahead to the actual point: how would you do it. The following steps will guide you in building a 2-barrel septic system.
- Dig a hole 10 feet from the main building that requires a septic tank or have someone dig in line with the bathroom. Then, dig up to eight feet or more to allow good gravity flow when flushing the toilet and avoid clogging.
- The next step is to dig a ditch about 2 feet deep and 3 feet away from the structure directly in front of the hole. This is going to be your lacquer line.
- Using a jigsaw, cut a 4-inch hole under the top and on the side of the plastic pipe to accommodate the leaching line, which is a 10 foot long 3-inch diameter PVC pipe. The hole should be large enough to accommodate the pipe.
- Insert the 55-gallon plastic pipe slowly and carefully into the hole, followed by the black PVC leak line.
- Even with a thick layer of embers, you must cover the drainpipe with plastic. Finish the paint line with whatever dirt you removed when you dug.
- Insert the 10-foot-long section of solid PVC pipe from the structure into the barrel or barrel’s bunghole. Cover the barrel or drum lid with plastic and refill the drainage pipe with whatever dirt you had leftover from the previous one.
Important Tips to Consider
- The red tanks are constructed from two 55-litre plastic barrels. The solids that settle to the bottom of the waste fill the first tank. When the liquid reaches the second tank’s drain level, it is drained into it. Solids will sink to the bottom if there are any. When the juice from the second tank reaches the two drains, it is spread into the gravel leaching field. Most solids dissolve and spread over time. After a few years, the solid may accumulate on the tank’s surface, necessitating the tank’s evacuation.
- After a while, you’ll notice a settlement where the moat once stood. Fill with more soil and compact with your car’s wheel. Do not drive through the area where the drums are.
- It is assumed that you are familiar with ABS plastic pipes. It would help if you also had the necessary equipment to dig the ditch (or be willing to move around a lot).
- The ditch depth is proportional to the depth of the waste source pipeline. If the line is more profound or higher than the indicated line, you will need to dig a more deep or shallower ditch to receive that depth. It’s not difficult to imagine.
- When the tank is filled with solid particles, the vertical side of the “Y” is used to pump it out.
- The flat side of the “Y” connects to the waste source and must have a plug that matches the source’s supply line.
- Local septic regulations must be followed when installing a septic system. Installing a septic tank without a permit is illegal. The key specifies the local requirements for establishing a septic tank.
- Avoid locating your septic tank too close to trees, as tree roots will grow in your pipe, clogging it (with sources) and causing damage to your system over time.
- This system is a very limited-capacity system and is not intended to meet the needs of a large family. It is designed for use by a small caravan and two people. The upper barrel may need to be inflated once a year, depending on the service. In five years, the comprehensive system is shown here twice.
We hope we’ve succeeded in explaining the installation method as we’ve grabbed this procedure after extensive research.
Make sure you follow all the safety measures mentioned above in this guide, focusing on building a 2-barrel septic system.
Share this post with your friends and family if you find it effective in solving your questions regarding the septic system.