We are now equipped with many options available when selecting a septic tank for our home.
There are some important aspects when choosing the tanks that are worth considering, without which it would be a bit challenging to mount a septic tank drum.
Our Best Pick’s For You….
The size of the tank is also an important point to consider when installing the septic tank.
Check with your local health department and county government before constructing a sewage treatment plant to see if the location of your home is suitable for constructing a sewage treatment plant.
When the go-ahead is given, make a list of all the requirements and purchase permits that grant you the right to build.
Today in this post, we’ll be discussing the mounting of a 55-gallon drum septic tank for RV.
How do I mount my homemade 55-gallon drum septic tank drum?
The following steps would be extremely helpful for you to mount the homemade drum.
- Dig a hole 10 feet from the main building that requires a septic tank or have someone dig in line with the bathroom. Dig up to eight feet or more for good gravity flow and avoid clogging when flushing the toilet.
- The next step is to dig a ditch about 2 feet deep and 10 feet away from the structure directly in front of the hole. This is going to be your lacquer line.
- Using a jigsaw, cut a 4-inch hole under the top and on the side of the plastic pipe to accommodate the leaching line, which is a 10 foot long 3-inch diameter PVC pipe. The hole should be large enough to accommodate the pipe.
- Insert the 55-gallon plastic pipe slowly and carefully into the hole, followed by the black PVC leaching line. Even with a thick layer of embers, you must cover the drain pipe with plastic. Finish the paint line with whatever dirt you removed while digging.
- Fill the bunghole at the top of the barrel or barrels with the 10-foot section of solid PVC pipe from the structure. Cover the barrel or drum lid with plastic and refill the drainage pipe with whatever dirt you had leftover from the previous one.
Can I install my small septic system?
Yes, you can easily install your septic system; here, the system we’ll talk about is the smaller one, which will be ideal for the use of two people without laundry.
Step #1: Tank cutting
- Cut a hole the same size as the outside toilet flange in the top of each barrel. Calculate the outer diameter of the toilet flange that will be used. Place the hole against the edge of the drum to make it easier to connect to the pipe. To cut the drums, use a reciprocating saw.
- To each hole, screw a 10 cm toilet flange. Press the flanges into the top of each tank to ensure a precise fit. Screw the flanges into the tanks, so they don’t move or shift after they’re installed.
- On the opposite side of the hole in the top, cut a 4-inch hole in the first drum. Place the hole four to three inches from the top of the drum, aligned with the hole at the top of the tank. Use a hole saw or a reciprocating saw to cut the hole.
- Cut two 45-degree angle holes in the side of the drum from the center of the hole above. Locate the center line that runs through the center of the hole on the drum’s top. Mark 45-degree angles on each side of the centerline on the other drum. To make your holes, cut through the side of the barrel with a Saber or hole saw.
Step #2: Underground placing of the tanks
- Make a 4 26 3-foot (1.22 7.92 0.91 m) ditch. Drill a hole where you want your tank to be with a shovel or excavator. Continue digging until the hole measures 1.2 m in width, 7.9 m in length, and 0.91 m in depth.
- Place the drum at the end of the notch, with one side hole. When lowering the drum, make sure it is horizontal. Ascertain that the top of the drum is at least 4 inches below the surface.
- To place the second drum in front of the first, dig a 30 cm hole. Make your home the same size as the drum you’re going to put in it, so it fits snugly and doesn’t move.
- Smooth the hole with gravel until a 90-degree bend from the upper drum’s hole matches the toilet flange on the lower drum. To check if the holes are aligned, dry the 90-degree bend between the two drums. If you want to connect the pipeline better, dig the hole a little deeper.
- Cut three 1/2-inch (8.9 cm) and two 1/2-inch (8.9 cm) pieces of 4-inch (10 cm) ABS tubing, and glue them to the bend. Cut the ABS pipe sections or nipples with a hacksaw. It would help if you used PVC glue to secure the pieces in the bend.
- Check the alignment fit of the two drums. Insert the end of the 6.4 cm (2 1/2 inch) nipple into the first drum’s hole. Check that the nipple at the opposite end is aligned with the hole on top of the other drum.
- Glue the other tank’s toilet flange to the end of the three 1/2-inch (8.9 cm) nipples. To keep the bend in place, use PVC glue. Don’t worry about connecting the first drum just yet; you’ll connect it later.
- Glue a Y-bend to a three 1/2-inch (8.9 cm) nipple and bend the angled part 45 degrees. Attach a nipple to the end of the Y-bend with PVC glue. Align the angled pipe on the Y-bend with the incoming drain line and glue it to the toilet flange.
- Cut and glue 2 6.4 cm (12 inches) nipples at one end of 45-degree bends, then insert them into the lower drum’s side. Orient the ends at 45-degree angles to perpendicular to the ditch’s bottom.
Step #3: Setting the drain pipes connection
- Strike a post in the ground so that the top is level with the bottom of the 45-degree angle. It makes no difference what kind of game you play. Use a hammer or sledgehammer to strike the ground posts.
- Attach a 1-inch-wide block to the end of a 4-foot level with glue. This enables you to create angled drains for emptying your tanks.
- Place the second post in the ditch about 1.2 m (378 ft) from the first. Strike the post with your hammer or sledgehammer until it is the same height as the first one.
- Place the level’s end without the block on the first pile and the block on the second. Reduce the other post until the level is equal. The second post is one inch lower than the first, or one inch lower every thirty centimeters.
- Rep this process until you have poles running parallel to the ditch. Add every 3–7–8 feet (1.2 m) from the last post in the rest of the ditch so that the posts slope away from the drums.
- Fill the ditch with gravel until the top of the gravel is level with the tops of the posts. The gravel now slopes away from the drums at a rate of 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) per 30 cm horizontally (1 foot).
- Fill each hole in the other drum with the 6.1 m (20 ft) perforated drainage tube. Insert the drainpipe ends into the lower drum’s 45-degree bend. Make sure the pipe holes are facing downwards so that liquids can seep back into the soil.
- Examine the pipes with a level to ensure that the 1/4-inch (0.64 cm) slope is consistent along the length of the pipe. Adjust the slope of the pipe by adding or removing gravel.
- The lower and upper drum seals have 45-degree and 90-degree bends, respectively. For the best drain sealing, use a two-part epoxy or silicone sealant. Use a flexible hose for this to flex slightly if the floor moves.
- Fill the lower drum halfway with water to keep it from collapsing under the weight of the gravel. Fill in the ditch with the remaining gravel up to the top of the lower drum.
- Place the landscape fabric on top of the gravel. This step prevents soil from penetrating the gravel and ensures proper tank drainage.
- Fill in the remaining ditch area with soil and compact it to the original level. After you’ve filled the area with soil, make sure it’s level. Leave the overhead lines on the first tank exposed so that you can easily reach the tanks later if necessary.
- Fill the upper drum halfway with water. Pour the water directly through the upper drum’s exposed pipes. Continue to fill the dish until it is full, then cover it with a lid to seal it.
We hope we’ve completely explained all the aspects of mounting a 55-gallon drum septic tank for RV.
All the mentioned steps are worth considering, and ensure you follow them step by step to reduce any possible error.